Dior backstage Couture SS19′ Paris Fashion Week

I still remember the excitement I felt as a kiddo when the Circus came to town. It didn’t happen so often but when it did, it brought with it a magic that was beyond the everyday notions of fun, it was a whole new world filled with wonder and amazing performances. Small wonder the underlying theme of Dior’s new couture collection was the mysterious decadence of the circus. Maria Grazia Chiuri artistically depicted the performance, the costumes, the glitter and the colors of the Circus, inspired by circus depictions from Jean Cocteau, Picasso, Cindy Sherman and Avedon’s Dovima with the elephants, which was shot in Paris’s Winter Circus around 1955. She came across exquisitely  hand-sequined costumes by Gerard Vicaire, real couture where everything is handmade, every sequin, every stitch and the collection came to life exuberant, artistic with that dash of exciting unexpectencies.


The show was opened and featured a full acrobatic spectacle from the all-women troupe of circus acrobats Mimbre, that performed their astounding act at the Dior Circus Tent at Rodin’s Museum during the fashion show as an act around which the whole fashion show revolved. Women stood on other women’s shoulders dressed in color blocked black & white suits with caps. They formed an arc of triumph as an opening gate entrance and continued to strode along the walkways, breaking gender barriers and hearts also, with a symbolism of such a magnitude of female support, telling a story of love, acceptance, femininity and strength.

 However her lady was grandeur than life and that symbolism of the female strength was best portrayed trough the female ring masters dressed in black and white suits, from greatcoats and cutaway tailcoats, to the band-boy frogging decorations, right trough to the wholly tailored ivory satin three-piece. There was such creativity in the design of the suits, the forms, the fabrics, the pants, the coats and the details they each had sewn on. The way they were combined with delicate ripped bows and sparkling accessories enriched with a black crystal embroidered face-nets was exceptional.   


There was a sense of nostalgia in the ripped off finish the overall look of the collection brought with it. Fabrics intentionally wrinkled, bows ripped edges, knitted dresses in multicolored stripes, organza silk voluminous minis striped with tiny satin ribbons in warm and flashy colors. The mix was enriched by the tattooed  and sequined stockings and bodysuits they wore with the dresses, there were sparkles and stars on the booties they wore with the sequined and fabric knitted dresses. There was glitter on the flats as well, matched with a black and white ringmaster suit to balance it. The lining stitch decor was made of golden braids that made a semi-transparent caged crinoline gown look exceptional and extraordinary. The effect the tiny playsuits and body stockings added to the outfits made them stood out.


We saw a lot of patchwork, there were multi colored stripes both vertical and horizontal. There was much sparkles, sequins and particular lace details all handmade superbly. The embroidery was intricate and the pleats and knits made out of fabrics were amusing in form and had an interesting dye-color effect. The shapes and forms of dresses were theatrical, there was enough color and enough monochrome outfits to counteract the “spotlight” attention grabbing fantasy looks. This Dior femme was both strong and fragile, sparkling and matte, multicolored and monochrome, she embraced all of her aspects, every angle and side to her imperfect perfection.


It was a world so beautiful and cute, with a built in sense of savoir faire, confidence and charm. A world of adventure, a world for the open mind, a field of fantasy seducing everyone who comes near. Waking up that feeling you felt last time you saw the Circus come to town. The Excitement, the adventure, the joy of life.


Maria made it again together with Tel Aviv’s choreographer Sharon Eval, as a genius designer and a breakthrough performance stunt visionary to give us a little taste of that particular joy de vivre, a look back at the caravan of entertainment that never stops to amuse and enchant. On with the show! The show must go on…couture style!


 All copyrights of photos go to their respectful owners / Vogue / Pinterest

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