DAY TWO PFW COUTURE SS19' GIVENCHY SUPER SHINE
Claire Waight Keller is all about starting fresh for this show, no remakes, no obligatory homage she started with a blank page and on it she placed a black jacket, cut through the waist with a proper basque for emphasis with contrasting lapels - one, a blade of white and a pair of black latex leggings. The show was held in the Museum of Modern Art in Paris with no set apart from the purity of gleaming white walls. The look moved from the purity of black and white to the substance of incredible color, explored new techniques, silhouettes and structures of beauty. It was based on co-mingling sharp, architectural lines with softness and light movement. She played with fabric structure and gave volume to back bows. She used a lot of sparkles, geometric patterned shapes, daring bodysuits with hexagram netted texture and shiny latex in bold coloring.
Men joined Givenchy ladies on the runway, whose dominating message in suit couture craft was sharp indeed, sprayed and sprinkled in sequins, floral cutouts framed with glitter and even came in shiny silver silk satin suit . With the ladies Keller's essential vision is the reimagined smoking baring a good deal of skin, with a molded, structured corsetry.
In this collection the designer explored clothing construction as architecture yet followed a pursuit of absolute lightness. "Tailleur and Flou" this duality represents the essence of haute couture but what Keller seem to suggest for couture this summer is a more hybrid approach. The designs seemed superfluous with a built in calm grandeur. A Swiss guipure dress that appeared sculpted, flawlessly contoured skirts exploding into sheer organza. Take a look at the impeccably tailored sleeveless jacket twisting around the neck with a holographic mask beaming at her forehead moving to the mesmerizing voice of Montserrat Caballe.
The craftsmanship of Givenchy surpassed ordinary savoire faire, the 3D effects of the voluptuous long flower laced dresses seemed to emerge further out as they moved. The intricate crystal details forming impeccable pleated full skirts accompanied feather details around necklines and enriched knitted embroidery, metallic applications, multicolored fringes worn with sparkling ankle pumps. The makeup was all natural, androgynous with a bit of sparkling spray and metallic laced masks. The Enormous Bow backpacks branded Givenchy were a personal favorite, giving extra value, relevance and practicality to couture.
Though hardly a stranger to haute couture the designer named latex, her couture leather, the most bespoke fabric in terms of getting that second skin feeling along with super modernity, super shine and super color for the super woman of today. As the show progressed the material was seen in a single royal blue sleeve and a red bodysuit each injecting a black gown with unexpected guts. Givenchy power message evolved with silvery, futuristic cages over hot pants or short skirts in a diamond cut ultra chic pattern. The corsetry carried a certain kind of superhero vibe with great sophistication, marked by a strong , modernist attitude that gave into power dressing by night in a world where traditional romance reigns.
Each garment of this superb world Keller created was exquisitely handmade to perfection. It was a grand gesture by Claire Waight Keller to attempt such extraordinary exhibition of the highest level of skill in couture, to mix such opposites so natural, making it look almost fluid, visceral, futuristic couture. It was stimulating for the senses of the most refined tastes. Each creation was a living work of art. Standing Ovation! Megan Markle will certainly favor these styles that are all about soft power.
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